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Vratija se "Tovar", di je bija? Di je bija, da je bija, lipo mu je bilo!
Tako kaže stara klapska pjesma. Umjesto Šime mi smo stavili "Tovara" jer kultna konoba "Tovar", nakon trideset godina, opet je otvorena u zadarskom Varošu.
Onu staru, prvu konobu tog savršenog dalmatinskog imena, držao je pokojni Slavko Radak na Sircu, u uličici ispod Kovačke, početkom sedamdesetih godina prošlog stoljeća. "Tovar" je bio okupljalište Varošana, ali i raznoraznih društava oko Filozofskog fakulteta, boema i pjesnika, a ime je dobio po Slavkom nimalo suptilnom nadimku – Tovar.
Još se danas prepričavaju vicevi na njegov račun. Posebno je u pamćenju ostao njegov stil rezanja uvijek pravog pršuta. Jednu fetu je znao sjeći deset minuta, na što bi gostima pucali živci.
- Bilo je to vrime kad se nikome nije žurilo pa se moglo tako raditi. Danas nitko nema vrimena, ali bi ga trebali naći, barem za sebe - govore u "Tovaru"
U istom prostoru početkom devedesetih otvoren je popularni "Rio", kad se činilo da je "Tovar" otišao. No, eto, vratio se prije kojeg tjedna u zadarski Varoš, na mjestu gdje je dugo godina bila, također kultna, "Antiqua".
- "Tovar" se zove dijelom u spomen na pokojnog Slavka Radaka, a dijelom u čast beštije koja je ovu našu dalmatinsku civilizaciju težaka i ribara iznijela doslovno na svojim leđima – kaže Srđan Čuklin, vlasnik "Tovara", poznatiji kao Ćuća, koji je zadnjih petnaestak godina proveo kod Zorana Galošića u konobi "Stomorica".
"Tovar" se vratio i ostao je isti. U deset kvadrata sve je stalo, šank, kredenca, kužina i dobra spiza. Ponajprije ona marendaška, pa nas je tako u ponedjeljak dočekao brudet od 7,5 kila teškog ugora s pulentom, no tu je i jetrica na venecijano, odličan pršut, sir, domaća jaja, panceta, fritade, salata od hobotnice...
- Svaki dan je iznenađenje. Šta se skuva, to se i nudi. A kuva se ono što je taj dan dobro i friško. Pa ko voli... - kaže Ćuća.
Uz spizu se u konobu vratio i varoški duh. Poznata lica, marendini, ćakula i zafrkancija. Tovar reve, vrime je za marendu...
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Vratija se "Tovar", di je bija? Di je bija, da je bija, lipo mu je bilo!
Tako kaže stara klapska pjesma. Umjesto Šime mi smo stavili "Tovara" jer kultna konoba "Tovar", nakon trideset godina, opet je otvorena u zadarskom Varošu.
Onu staru, prvu konobu tog savršenog dalmatinskog imena, držao je pokojni Slavko Radak na Sircu, u uličici ispod Kovačke, početkom sedamdesetih godina prošlog stoljeća. "Tovar" je bio okupljalište Varošana, ali i raznoraznih društava oko Filozofskog fakulteta, boema i pjesnika, a ime je dobio po Slavkom nimalo suptilnom nadimku – Tovar.
Još se danas prepričavaju vicevi na njegov račun. Posebno je u pamćenju ostao njegov stil rezanja uvijek pravog pršuta. Jednu fetu je znao sjeći deset minuta, na što bi gostima pucali živci.
- Bilo je to vrime kad se nikome nije žurilo pa se moglo tako raditi. Danas nitko nema vrimena, ali bi ga trebali naći, barem za sebe - govore u "Tovaru"
U istom prostoru početkom devedesetih otvoren je popularni "Rio", kad se činilo da je "Tovar" otišao. No, eto, vratio se prije kojeg tjedna u zadarski Varoš, na mjestu gdje je dugo godina bila, također kultna, "Antiqua".
- "Tovar" se zove dijelom u spomen na pokojnog Slavka Radaka, a dijelom u čast beštije koja je ovu našu dalmatinsku civilizaciju težaka i ribara iznijela doslovno na svojim leđima – kaže Srđan Čuklin, vlasnik "Tovara", poznatiji kao Ćuća, koji je zadnjih petnaestak godina proveo kod Zorana Galošića u konobi "Stomorica".
"Tovar" se vratio i ostao je isti. U deset kvadrata sve je stalo, šank, kredenca, kužina i dobra spiza. Ponajprije ona marendaška, pa nas je tako u ponedjeljak dočekao brudet od 7,5 kila teškog ugora s pulentom, no tu je i jetrica na venecijano, odličan pršut, sir, domaća jaja, panceta, fritade, salata od hobotnice...
- Svaki dan je iznenađenje. Šta se skuva, to se i nudi. A kuva se ono što je taj dan dobro i friško. Pa ko voli... - kaže Ćuća.
Uz spizu se u konobu vratio i varoški duh. Poznata lica, marendini, ćakula i zafrkancija. Tovar reve, vrime je za marendu...
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14. svibanj 2024 08:01
