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[title] => Maštate o Toscani i Provansi? Mi imamo fotogenični čarobni kvart zbog kojeg dolaze s drugog kraja svijeta, a vi o njemu nemate pojma! Obujte patike, a prije pročitajte priču
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Svakog jutra šjora Marija Brkljačić u lonac uvati vode pa krene u obilazak pitara punih svakojakog cvića. Kaže svit iz Velog Varoša, staroga splitskog kvarta, onog koje pamtimo po kadrovima iz Smojina "Velog mista", kako lipših hortenzija od Marijinih iz Senjske ulice nema nigdi na svitu.
Treba to sve i napojiti, ma neka, kaže šjora Marija, ne žali ona ni lipe ni kapi. Nema joj većeg gušta nego kada turisti dođu u nekadašnje Alujevića dvore, u kojima se tombola igrala, pa zinu od lipote, pa se oko sebe vrte ka trotuli, namištaju selfie štape, ne daju se više iz malog smišnog dvora istirat. Tu bi odma ostali živit do kraja života.
A da joj tek vidite muža, šjor Ivu Brkljačića. Velovarošanina koji svako jutro ima svoj zadatak.
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– Moj Ivo, čim se digne ujutro, između cvića i po cilom dvoru posloži našu kolekciju vrtnih patuljaka. I lipo ih stavi ka dekoracije i to kad ljudi vide, a šta ću vam poć pričat, to ulazi u dvor, to je oduševljenje i radost. I onda ti patuljci tako stoje do mraka. Onda ih moj Ivo opet skupi i stavi u našu malu spremicu.
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I sutra opet tako. Evo ovaj naš mali dvor ima deset apartmana, ali to vam je sloga velika – kažu nam Marija i Ivo, čuvari Alujevića kantuna i starog duha Splita.
Na tri sata smo se pretvorili u turiste u vlastitu gradu i uz pomoć našeg vodiča, fetivog, pravog Velovarošanina Frane Galzine, prošli mjesta koja u životu vidjeli nismo.
Znate li što su balature? Kamene stepenice ponad starih konoba. A kolovaje? E to vam je naziv za one male tijesne ulice u kojima dva deblja čovjeka moraju dobro uvući trbuhe da bi prošli jedan mimo drugoga.
Ima toga još puno, ponistre, škure, pitari i armadure, armeruni i balinjere, baluneri i bančići, coto gobe i crkvine, frajanje, franci i franje, fruti, frutarije i fudre..., asti koliko Veli Varoš svojih starih riječi i naglasaka ima. Frane ih dobro zna, on je svoje djetinjstvo proveo ovdje.
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I stabla imena imaju
Onda ga je život poveo na istok Splita, ali ne možeš ti protiv onog unutra. I eto ti ga na, vratio se gdje je sve i počelo. Obnovio je staru kuću, ali nije na tome stao. Prije devet godina utemeljio je Građansku inicijativu Particela i organizirao subotnje velovaroško uređivanje i ljudovanje.
Pa su dobri ljudi dobili priliku za druženje, ćakulu, briškulu. A prvenstveno su poradili na ljepoti kvarta, pa pritom uredili zapušteno narkomansko sastajalište.
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Zasadili su na zapuštenoj parceli cvijeće, grmove, stabla. Stabla su i svoja imena dobila. Upoznali smo tako Sedmu mendulu, Ladu, Helenu, Luciju, Leona, Palminu, Mariju Terezu i Martinu.
– Varoš je s godinama mijenjao svoju sliku, domaći su počeli prodavati starine, preseljavali su se u gradske zgrade. Rat je puno tome doprinio. Došli su novi ljudi, investitori, stigao je turizam, počele su se obnavljati kuće, otvorili su se restorani, cijena kvadrata je otišla u nebo.
I prije nego što se kuća stavi na prodaju ona je već našla svog novog čovika. Veli Varoš je totalni splitski hit, vrimena su se prominila i novi kupci sada traže mjesta s pričom. I zato je Varoš od kvarta u kojem se nekad kvadrat prodavao za bagatelu postao jedna od skupljih gradskih zona – veli nam Frane.
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Vidimo svojim očima, na svakom kantunu nešto se uredilo, na sreću povijest se mahom samo rekonstruirala, nije i brisala. I ovdje se nađu građevinske šake u oko, čudni balkoni, neke blesave obnove... Zasmeta to, na sreću nema ih u velikom broju.
Prednjače zato dobri makeoveri nekadašnjih ruina, fasade kamenih kuća obnovljene u starom stilu, s cvijećem, stolovima za kavu sa susidima, slapovi zelenila, odrine s vinovom lozom, divne skalinade, prozori sa škurama iza kojih vihore čipkane zavjese.
Čudni li smo mi ljudi, uvijek se divimo tuđem, pričamo o takvim lokacijama iz bijelog svijeta, kao da toga doma nemamo. A imamo na svakom koraku.
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Kaže nam Frane kako bi dicu već u vrtićima trebalo početi učiti o čuvanju ljepote naše starine. Ako ništa drugo povesti ih u obilazak grada, pa im pokazati koliko divote živi u nekim kvartovima. Put nas je preko svih tih skalinada doveo do Vidilice. Široke su te skale, posebne, kaže Frane da su bile u startu prilagođene raskoraku nekadašnjih mazgi i tovara splitskih težaka.
Prolazimo kraj dvorova punih cvića, balkona i terasi, vrtova s povrćem, preko Senjske, Babine, Milićeve i drugih ulica.
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Onda lagano do još jednog dvora iz velovaroškog Amarcorda, do felinijevske slike, u dom barba Petra Rosandića. I sjedi taj čovjek mirno, zadovoljno na dnu dugog stola i gušta u pašteti, kruvu, grizinama, uz bocun vina. Piva mu kraj uha grdelin, nekoliko ćiba iza čeka da u njih još koji uđe. Uživa kao kralj. Pitamo ga koliko godina ima.
Dvor od milijun dolari
– A jedno barem 200. Je li vidite kako je ovde lipo, je l‘ tako. Ovde san cili život, u ovom mom lipom dvoru. Tu je bila konoba, u dvoru se igralo na balote, ovde se lipo sede, unutra je spiza, tu je komin za bacit ribu na gradele, iza mi je vrt s verdurom, gori je loza, za slako imaš smokvu.
Ajme meni, puno mi se ljudi javljalo da im ovo prodam, ne, ni čut. Ma da bi ja napustija ovo misto i iša u neku zgradu, mo‘š mislit. Ni za miljun dolari – kaže barba Petar.
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A naš Frane, čuvar cijelog Varoša, vodi nas i do njihova subotnjeg sastajališta, do nekadašnjeg narkomanskog rugla. Tu su danas napravili malu zelenu oazu, urbani vrt koji je prepoznala i Europa i uzela ih kao primjer. Postavili su i klupe, pa ekipa u hladovinu dolazi uživati.
Sve je počelo 2014. godine, kaže Frane, pa navodi kako se puno napravilo, ali još ih i puno posla čeka. Između ostalog moraju gradske oce uvjeriti da je Varoš turističko otkriće, i kako ne bi bilo loše asfalt u ulici zamijeniti kamenim pločama, u starom duhu. Postaviti još koju česmu, i po cijelom kvartu staviti tabele koje će voditi turiste od jedne do druge poznate lokacije. Pa je l‘ to puno?
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– Jednom smo moj prijatelj Joško Belamarić i ja šetali Varošom i divili se lipotama kvarta, i onda nam je odma sinija projekt Veli Varoš lipji nego Montmart. I tako se krenilo u akciju. Ovde vrt, onde neki lipi mural, ma pogledajte ovaj posvećen našoj Palmini, ženi koju su neki tako grubo maknuli sa strane, uništili spomen na njen značaj. A vidite ovaj mural s receptom za fritule naše Dike. To su te varoške divote.
I tako malo-pomalo, pozoveš ljude da srede okućnice, napraviš urbani vrt, pokušaš oživiti ulice jer fali nam puno toga, evo konoba sa srdelama i galerijama i domaće pisme, pa onda pofališ ljude kako su lipo učinili dvor...
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To vam je zelenilo puno važno, a Veli ga Varoš ima, i uvik ga je ima. I unutra, di se na prvu ne vidi. Ima on šaka u oko, ima urbicida, ali borimo se da ga je šta manje. Turizam je donio obnovu, ali i napravio drugačiju sliku – veli Frane.
Negdi dobiješ, negdi izgubiš, bitno je da života ima. I da si u plusu. Možda je za život Velog Varoša najbolje napisati ono što su nam ljudi u prolazu dobacili. To da je on pravo narodski skrojen. Po miri čovika. Jedno puno lipo misto.
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Jakov Prkić/Cropix
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Jakov Prkić/Cropix
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Jakov Prkić/Cropix
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Jakov Prkić/Cropix
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Jakov Prkić/Cropix
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Jakov Prkić/Cropix
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Jakov Prkić/Cropix
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Jakov Prkić/Cropix
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Jakov Prkić/Cropix
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Jakov Prkić/Cropix
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Jakov Prkić/Cropix
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Jakov Prkić/Cropix
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Jakov Prkić/Cropix
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Jakov Prkić/Cropix
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Jakov Prkić/Cropix
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Jakov Prkić/Cropix
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Jakov Prkić/Cropix
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Jakov Prkić/Cropix
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Jakov Prkić/Cropix
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Jakov Prkić/Cropix
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Svakog jutra šjora Marija Brkljačić u lonac uvati vode pa krene u obilazak pitara punih svakojakog cvića. Kaže svit iz Velog Varoša, staroga splitskog kvarta, onog koje pamtimo po kadrovima iz Smojina "Velog mista", kako lipših hortenzija od Marijinih iz Senjske ulice nema nigdi na svitu.
Treba to sve i napojiti, ma neka, kaže šjora Marija, ne žali ona ni lipe ni kapi. Nema joj većeg gušta nego kada turisti dođu u nekadašnje Alujevića dvore, u kojima se tombola igrala, pa zinu od lipote, pa se oko sebe vrte ka trotuli, namištaju selfie štape, ne daju se više iz malog smišnog dvora istirat. Tu bi odma ostali živit do kraja života.
A da joj tek vidite muža, šjor Ivu Brkljačića. Velovarošanina koji svako jutro ima svoj zadatak.
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– Moj Ivo, čim se digne ujutro, između cvića i po cilom dvoru posloži našu kolekciju vrtnih patuljaka. I lipo ih stavi ka dekoracije i to kad ljudi vide, a šta ću vam poć pričat, to ulazi u dvor, to je oduševljenje i radost. I onda ti patuljci tako stoje do mraka. Onda ih moj Ivo opet skupi i stavi u našu malu spremicu.
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I sutra opet tako. Evo ovaj naš mali dvor ima deset apartmana, ali to vam je sloga velika – kažu nam Marija i Ivo, čuvari Alujevića kantuna i starog duha Splita.
Na tri sata smo se pretvorili u turiste u vlastitu gradu i uz pomoć našeg vodiča, fetivog, pravog Velovarošanina Frane Galzine, prošli mjesta koja u životu vidjeli nismo.
Znate li što su balature? Kamene stepenice ponad starih konoba. A kolovaje? E to vam je naziv za one male tijesne ulice u kojima dva deblja čovjeka moraju dobro uvući trbuhe da bi prošli jedan mimo drugoga.
Ima toga još puno, ponistre, škure, pitari i armadure, armeruni i balinjere, baluneri i bančići, coto gobe i crkvine, frajanje, franci i franje, fruti, frutarije i fudre..., asti koliko Veli Varoš svojih starih riječi i naglasaka ima. Frane ih dobro zna, on je svoje djetinjstvo proveo ovdje.
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I stabla imena imaju
Onda ga je život poveo na istok Splita, ali ne možeš ti protiv onog unutra. I eto ti ga na, vratio se gdje je sve i počelo. Obnovio je staru kuću, ali nije na tome stao. Prije devet godina utemeljio je Građansku inicijativu Particela i organizirao subotnje velovaroško uređivanje i ljudovanje.
Pa su dobri ljudi dobili priliku za druženje, ćakulu, briškulu. A prvenstveno su poradili na ljepoti kvarta, pa pritom uredili zapušteno narkomansko sastajalište.
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Zasadili su na zapuštenoj parceli cvijeće, grmove, stabla. Stabla su i svoja imena dobila. Upoznali smo tako Sedmu mendulu, Ladu, Helenu, Luciju, Leona, Palminu, Mariju Terezu i Martinu.
– Varoš je s godinama mijenjao svoju sliku, domaći su počeli prodavati starine, preseljavali su se u gradske zgrade. Rat je puno tome doprinio. Došli su novi ljudi, investitori, stigao je turizam, počele su se obnavljati kuće, otvorili su se restorani, cijena kvadrata je otišla u nebo.
I prije nego što se kuća stavi na prodaju ona je već našla svog novog čovika. Veli Varoš je totalni splitski hit, vrimena su se prominila i novi kupci sada traže mjesta s pričom. I zato je Varoš od kvarta u kojem se nekad kvadrat prodavao za bagatelu postao jedna od skupljih gradskih zona – veli nam Frane.
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Vidimo svojim očima, na svakom kantunu nešto se uredilo, na sreću povijest se mahom samo rekonstruirala, nije i brisala. I ovdje se nađu građevinske šake u oko, čudni balkoni, neke blesave obnove... Zasmeta to, na sreću nema ih u velikom broju.
Prednjače zato dobri makeoveri nekadašnjih ruina, fasade kamenih kuća obnovljene u starom stilu, s cvijećem, stolovima za kavu sa susidima, slapovi zelenila, odrine s vinovom lozom, divne skalinade, prozori sa škurama iza kojih vihore čipkane zavjese.
Čudni li smo mi ljudi, uvijek se divimo tuđem, pričamo o takvim lokacijama iz bijelog svijeta, kao da toga doma nemamo. A imamo na svakom koraku.
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Kaže nam Frane kako bi dicu već u vrtićima trebalo početi učiti o čuvanju ljepote naše starine. Ako ništa drugo povesti ih u obilazak grada, pa im pokazati koliko divote živi u nekim kvartovima. Put nas je preko svih tih skalinada doveo do Vidilice. Široke su te skale, posebne, kaže Frane da su bile u startu prilagođene raskoraku nekadašnjih mazgi i tovara splitskih težaka.
Prolazimo kraj dvorova punih cvića, balkona i terasi, vrtova s povrćem, preko Senjske, Babine, Milićeve i drugih ulica.
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Onda lagano do još jednog dvora iz velovaroškog Amarcorda, do felinijevske slike, u dom barba Petra Rosandića. I sjedi taj čovjek mirno, zadovoljno na dnu dugog stola i gušta u pašteti, kruvu, grizinama, uz bocun vina. Piva mu kraj uha grdelin, nekoliko ćiba iza čeka da u njih još koji uđe. Uživa kao kralj. Pitamo ga koliko godina ima.
Dvor od milijun dolari
– A jedno barem 200. Je li vidite kako je ovde lipo, je l‘ tako. Ovde san cili život, u ovom mom lipom dvoru. Tu je bila konoba, u dvoru se igralo na balote, ovde se lipo sede, unutra je spiza, tu je komin za bacit ribu na gradele, iza mi je vrt s verdurom, gori je loza, za slako imaš smokvu.
Ajme meni, puno mi se ljudi javljalo da im ovo prodam, ne, ni čut. Ma da bi ja napustija ovo misto i iša u neku zgradu, mo‘š mislit. Ni za miljun dolari – kaže barba Petar.
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A naš Frane, čuvar cijelog Varoša, vodi nas i do njihova subotnjeg sastajališta, do nekadašnjeg narkomanskog rugla. Tu su danas napravili malu zelenu oazu, urbani vrt koji je prepoznala i Europa i uzela ih kao primjer. Postavili su i klupe, pa ekipa u hladovinu dolazi uživati.
Sve je počelo 2014. godine, kaže Frane, pa navodi kako se puno napravilo, ali još ih i puno posla čeka. Između ostalog moraju gradske oce uvjeriti da je Varoš turističko otkriće, i kako ne bi bilo loše asfalt u ulici zamijeniti kamenim pločama, u starom duhu. Postaviti još koju česmu, i po cijelom kvartu staviti tabele koje će voditi turiste od jedne do druge poznate lokacije. Pa je l‘ to puno?
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– Jednom smo moj prijatelj Joško Belamarić i ja šetali Varošom i divili se lipotama kvarta, i onda nam je odma sinija projekt Veli Varoš lipji nego Montmart. I tako se krenilo u akciju. Ovde vrt, onde neki lipi mural, ma pogledajte ovaj posvećen našoj Palmini, ženi koju su neki tako grubo maknuli sa strane, uništili spomen na njen značaj. A vidite ovaj mural s receptom za fritule naše Dike. To su te varoške divote.
I tako malo-pomalo, pozoveš ljude da srede okućnice, napraviš urbani vrt, pokušaš oživiti ulice jer fali nam puno toga, evo konoba sa srdelama i galerijama i domaće pisme, pa onda pofališ ljude kako su lipo učinili dvor...
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To vam je zelenilo puno važno, a Veli ga Varoš ima, i uvik ga je ima. I unutra, di se na prvu ne vidi. Ima on šaka u oko, ima urbicida, ali borimo se da ga je šta manje. Turizam je donio obnovu, ali i napravio drugačiju sliku – veli Frane.
Negdi dobiješ, negdi izgubiš, bitno je da života ima. I da si u plusu. Možda je za život Velog Varoša najbolje napisati ono što su nam ljudi u prolazu dobacili. To da je on pravo narodski skrojen. Po miri čovika. Jedno puno lipo misto.
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Jakov Prkić/Cropix
Mnoge kuće u Varošu su obnovljene ponajprije zahvaljujući turizmu, ali ima stanovnika koji još uvijek tu samo žive
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20. svibanj 2024 04:49
