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[title] => Toni Boban i njegova K.užina ciljaju visoko: učenik Hrvoja Zirojevića otvorio je restoran, provjerili smo što se kuha...
[alias] => toni-boban-i-njegova-k-uzina-ciljaju-visoko-ucenik-hrvoja-zirojevica-otvorio-je-restoran-provjerili-smo-sto-se-kuha
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Puno se toga lijepog zakuhalo na splitskoj gastronomskoj sceni, a najnovije otkriće nam je restoran koji je prije nešto manje od mjesec dana počeo s radom u samom srcu grada, u ulici Kraj sv. Marije, pored Pjace. Zove se jednostavno K.užina, a mene je zaintrigirao iz više razloga, počevši s kuriozitetom da u njemu kuha jedna dobro uigrana i Splićanima dobro poznata ekipa.
Vlasnik restorana je Toni Boban, chef čija smo jela zavoljeli u restoranima No Stress i Corto Maltese, koji je za vrijeme njegova “chefovanja” dobio priznanje vodiča Gault Millau. Toni je svoje znanje i talent dokazao i na natjecanjima, osvojivši kao kao mlađi kuhar Biser mora i IKKER (Interregionalni kup kuhara europskih regija).
Dočekao me u zgodno uređenom ambijentu, koji je usprkos “gluvoj” uri i danu bio pristojno popunjen, a ono što je trebao biti brzopotezni intervju razvilo se u zanesenu priču o kuhanju, ugostiteljstvu, dobroj spizi...
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Kako mi je kazao, jelovnik će fokusirati na jela mediteranske i dalmatinske kulinarske tradicije, modernizirana novim pristupom i utjecajima azijske kuhinje, u koju se chef zaljubio još kao dijete, dok je živio u Maleziji, te ju je naknadno bolje upoznao 2017. godine kroz niz masterclassova koje je pohađao u Singapuru.
Na zamolbu da mi to malo pobliže objasni, uzeo je za primjer tortu od badema i limuna svoje babe, za koju je godinama tražio način kako je napraviti da izgleda suvremeno, ali da zadrži svoj dobro poznati okus.
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To je, smatra chef, neki “old school” okus kojeg danas fali te dodaje kako uz azijsku, koja ga oduševljava okusima i tehnikama, jako cijeni talijansku i francusku kuhinju, koje su temelji gastronomije, ali našu spizu stavlja na posebno mjesto jer, kaže, “mi moramo bit mi”. Koncept K.užine je fine dining, ali, reklo bi se po onome što mi je kazao, malo opuštenije vrste od fine dininga u užem smislu.
“Želimo bit mjesto na kojem će ljudi uživat u hrani, dobrim vinima, sokovima, kavi, dobroj muzici, interijeru. Ovo je proces rasta, dokle ćemo doći, ne znam, ali ciljam visoko. Imam vrhunske ljude koji su sa mnom godinama radili u Corta, di nam je bilo dobro. Meni je to sedam lipih godina, imao sam slobodne ruke i iz godine u godinu smo podizali ljestvicu, dobivali priznanja...
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Ali naprid se može ić samo kad sebe izvedeš iz konforne zone, a ja sam u Corta posta konforan i vidija da stagniram. Kad san to shvatija, mora san otić”, objašnjava naš sugovornik, a kako to chef Toni izlazi iz komforne zone, najbolje vam može predočiti jelovnik, na kojem su se našla jela kao što su lignja i poma (“Naša lignja od koće, od tijela radimo linguine, od ostataka brujet, najbolje od najboljega”) ili pak lubin i paprika (“Oni se, kao, nikad ne mogu spojit, ali itekako mogu”).
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“Mi ovde pokušavamo napravit nešto šta nije viđeno. Ja virujen da tribaš slušat sebe. Dobro je poslušat savjete, ali triba znat šta si zamislija i toga se držat”, smatra chef pa dodaje kako mu je neprocjenjive savjete dao Hrvoje Zirojević, chef kojeg iznimno cijeni i kod kojeg je započeo peći zanat nakon završetka kuharske škole.
“Otac me jedan dan pita oću ić radit i upozna me sa Zirojevićem, još je radija u Noštroma, uvik ću pamtit onaj mrki pogled i ricastu kosu. Reka mi je: ‘Ja ću ti pokazat nešto drukčije, ali moraš radit, a ako nećeš radit, odma aj ća.’ Osta sam paf, ali sam prihvatija. To je bilo prije 17 godina, a on mi je i danas očinska figura šta se tiče hrane. Kad sam odlučija otvorit restoran, prvo san reka ženi pa njemu”, iskreno će vlasnik K.užine.
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Odgovarajući prostor dugo je tražio, a iznimno mu je drago što ga je pronašao baš tu, u prostoru koji je generacijama Splićana dobro poznat kao butiga od Levisa. “Po meni, ovo je biser u centru grada, imaš svoju kalu, to mi je uvik bilo interesantno”, kaže chef pa dodaje kako planiraju ostati otvoreni tijekom cijele godine, minus mjesec-dva tijekom zime, s tim da im je cilj postići mogućnost rada bez prekida.
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“Restoran mora radit da bi iša naprid, mora imat dobre ljude i ulagat u njih, a važno je i stvorit neki svoj đir. Furešti su gorivo za lito, ali triba mislit na domaći svit. Ja bi bija najsritniji da nam svima skoče plaće pa da postane normalno, ka u Španjolskoj recimo, nakon posla skoknit na pinchose (vrsta sitnih zalogajčića, najčešće sendviča koji se poslužuju u tapas barovima, op.a.).
Trenutno ne postoji dovoljna količina ljudi koji bi popunili sve restorane u Splitu i zato je u prvi i drugi misec suša”, govori Boban, uz primjedbu da su u K.užini baš zbog toga osmislili degustacijski meni s malo manjim porcijama, kako bi bio pristupačniji građanima, a u planu su im zanimljiva gostovanja...
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“Dovest ćemo dobra imena, da se stvori šušur, lipo je kad ti dođe neko s kim si dobar i ko dobro kuva. Tribamo jedni drugima pomagat i podržavat se, a samim tim druženjem nastaju nova jela”, zaključuje chef Toni Boban.
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title=Toni Boban i njegova K.užina ciljaju visoko: učenik Hrvoja Zirojevića otvorio je restoran, provjerili smo što se kuha...
page_title=Toni Boban i njegova K.užina ciljaju visoko: učenik Hrvoja Zirojevića otvorio je restoran, provjerili smo što se kuha...
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Puno se toga lijepog zakuhalo na splitskoj gastronomskoj sceni, a najnovije otkriće nam je restoran koji je prije nešto manje od mjesec dana počeo s radom u samom srcu grada, u ulici Kraj sv. Marije, pored Pjace. Zove se jednostavno K.užina, a mene je zaintrigirao iz više razloga, počevši s kuriozitetom da u njemu kuha jedna dobro uigrana i Splićanima dobro poznata ekipa.
Vlasnik restorana je Toni Boban, chef čija smo jela zavoljeli u restoranima No Stress i Corto Maltese, koji je za vrijeme njegova “chefovanja” dobio priznanje vodiča Gault Millau. Toni je svoje znanje i talent dokazao i na natjecanjima, osvojivši kao kao mlađi kuhar Biser mora i IKKER (Interregionalni kup kuhara europskih regija).
Dočekao me u zgodno uređenom ambijentu, koji je usprkos “gluvoj” uri i danu bio pristojno popunjen, a ono što je trebao biti brzopotezni intervju razvilo se u zanesenu priču o kuhanju, ugostiteljstvu, dobroj spizi...
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Kako mi je kazao, jelovnik će fokusirati na jela mediteranske i dalmatinske kulinarske tradicije, modernizirana novim pristupom i utjecajima azijske kuhinje, u koju se chef zaljubio još kao dijete, dok je živio u Maleziji, te ju je naknadno bolje upoznao 2017. godine kroz niz masterclassova koje je pohađao u Singapuru.
Na zamolbu da mi to malo pobliže objasni, uzeo je za primjer tortu od badema i limuna svoje babe, za koju je godinama tražio način kako je napraviti da izgleda suvremeno, ali da zadrži svoj dobro poznati okus.
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To je, smatra chef, neki “old school” okus kojeg danas fali te dodaje kako uz azijsku, koja ga oduševljava okusima i tehnikama, jako cijeni talijansku i francusku kuhinju, koje su temelji gastronomije, ali našu spizu stavlja na posebno mjesto jer, kaže, “mi moramo bit mi”. Koncept K.užine je fine dining, ali, reklo bi se po onome što mi je kazao, malo opuštenije vrste od fine dininga u užem smislu.
“Želimo bit mjesto na kojem će ljudi uživat u hrani, dobrim vinima, sokovima, kavi, dobroj muzici, interijeru. Ovo je proces rasta, dokle ćemo doći, ne znam, ali ciljam visoko. Imam vrhunske ljude koji su sa mnom godinama radili u Corta, di nam je bilo dobro. Meni je to sedam lipih godina, imao sam slobodne ruke i iz godine u godinu smo podizali ljestvicu, dobivali priznanja...
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Ali naprid se može ić samo kad sebe izvedeš iz konforne zone, a ja sam u Corta posta konforan i vidija da stagniram. Kad san to shvatija, mora san otić”, objašnjava naš sugovornik, a kako to chef Toni izlazi iz komforne zone, najbolje vam može predočiti jelovnik, na kojem su se našla jela kao što su lignja i poma (“Naša lignja od koće, od tijela radimo linguine, od ostataka brujet, najbolje od najboljega”) ili pak lubin i paprika (“Oni se, kao, nikad ne mogu spojit, ali itekako mogu”).
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“Mi ovde pokušavamo napravit nešto šta nije viđeno. Ja virujen da tribaš slušat sebe. Dobro je poslušat savjete, ali triba znat šta si zamislija i toga se držat”, smatra chef pa dodaje kako mu je neprocjenjive savjete dao Hrvoje Zirojević, chef kojeg iznimno cijeni i kod kojeg je započeo peći zanat nakon završetka kuharske škole.
“Otac me jedan dan pita oću ić radit i upozna me sa Zirojevićem, još je radija u Noštroma, uvik ću pamtit onaj mrki pogled i ricastu kosu. Reka mi je: ‘Ja ću ti pokazat nešto drukčije, ali moraš radit, a ako nećeš radit, odma aj ća.’ Osta sam paf, ali sam prihvatija. To je bilo prije 17 godina, a on mi je i danas očinska figura šta se tiče hrane. Kad sam odlučija otvorit restoran, prvo san reka ženi pa njemu”, iskreno će vlasnik K.užine.
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Odgovarajući prostor dugo je tražio, a iznimno mu je drago što ga je pronašao baš tu, u prostoru koji je generacijama Splićana dobro poznat kao butiga od Levisa. “Po meni, ovo je biser u centru grada, imaš svoju kalu, to mi je uvik bilo interesantno”, kaže chef pa dodaje kako planiraju ostati otvoreni tijekom cijele godine, minus mjesec-dva tijekom zime, s tim da im je cilj postići mogućnost rada bez prekida.
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“Restoran mora radit da bi iša naprid, mora imat dobre ljude i ulagat u njih, a važno je i stvorit neki svoj đir. Furešti su gorivo za lito, ali triba mislit na domaći svit. Ja bi bija najsritniji da nam svima skoče plaće pa da postane normalno, ka u Španjolskoj recimo, nakon posla skoknit na pinchose (vrsta sitnih zalogajčića, najčešće sendviča koji se poslužuju u tapas barovima, op.a.).
Trenutno ne postoji dovoljna količina ljudi koji bi popunili sve restorane u Splitu i zato je u prvi i drugi misec suša”, govori Boban, uz primjedbu da su u K.užini baš zbog toga osmislili degustacijski meni s malo manjim porcijama, kako bi bio pristupačniji građanima, a u planu su im zanimljiva gostovanja...
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“Dovest ćemo dobra imena, da se stvori šušur, lipo je kad ti dođe neko s kim si dobar i ko dobro kuva. Tribamo jedni drugima pomagat i podržavat se, a samim tim druženjem nastaju nova jela”, zaključuje chef Toni Boban.
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17. svibanj 2024 02:41
